What Is the Jeep Wrangler 392? The Fastest, Most Powerful Wrangler Explained

You just changed your oil, or picked up your Jeep or Ram from a quick-lube shop, and the "Oil Change Required" message is still glowing on your dashboard. It's one of the most common questions we hear from drivers in Lee's Summit: how do I make that reminder go away? The good news is that on most Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles, resetting the oil change indicator takes less than a minute, and you don't need any tools. The short answer Most Stellantis vehicles offer two ways to reset the oil change light. Method 1: with the ignition on and the engine off, use the steering wheel buttons to go to Vehicle Info, then Oil Life, and select Reset. Method 2: with the ignition on and the engine off, slowly press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor three times within ten seconds, then turn the ignition off. Start the vehicle to confirm the message is gone. Only reset it after the oil and filter have actually been changed. In this guide, we'll walk through both reset methods step by step, explain how the steps differ for push-button and key-start vehicles, cover what to do if the light won't reset and explain why resetting the indicator correctly matters for your engine. We'll also share tips for doing your own oil change and when it makes sense to let our Lee's Summit service team handle it. What the Oil Change Light Actually Means Before you reset anything, it helps to know what the indicator is telling you. Most Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles use an oil change indicator system, sometimes called an oil life monitor. According to Stellantis owner's manuals, the system is based on the engine's duty cycle, which means it estimates oil life from how the vehicle is actually driven, not just from mileage. When the system decides an oil change is due, it displays a message like "Oil Change Required" or "Oil Change Due," often with a single chime. After the oil is changed, the system doesn't know the job has been done. Someone has to tell it by resetting the indicator, so it can start counting down again from 100%. The oil change message is a maintenance reminder. It's different from the red oil pressure warning light, which looks like an oil can and means the engine has low oil pressure. If the red oil pressure light comes on, pull over safely and shut off the engine. Don't try to reset it. Our dashboard warning lights guide explains the difference. Before You Reset: A Quick Checklist Make sure the oil and filter have actually been changed. Resetting the indicator without changing the oil just hides the reminder. Check the oil level. Confirm the oil is filled to the correct level with the type listed in your owner's manual. Park somewhere safe with the transmission in Park. Have your owner's manual handy. Menu names and button layouts can vary slightly by model and year. Method 1: Reset Through the Instrument Cluster Menu This is the primary method on many newer Stellantis vehicles. Here are the steps from the Ram 2500/3500 owner's manual. Most Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles with steering-wheel display controls follow a very similar path. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Without pressing the brake pedal, push the ENGINE START/STOP button to put the ignition in the ON/RUN position. Don't start the engine. Scroll to Vehicle Info. Use the down arrow button on the steering wheel to scroll to "Vehicle Info." Open the Oil Life screen. Press the right arrow to enter Vehicle Info, then scroll up or down to "Oil Life." Select Reset. Press and hold the right arrow to select "Reset." Confirm. Press the down arrow to select "Yes," then press the right arrow to reset oil life to 100%. Exit. Press the up arrow to leave the menu. On some models, the menu may be labeled slightly differently, or you may confirm with an "OK" button instead of an arrow. If you don't see these exact labels, look for an oil life or vehicle information screen in your instrument cluster menu and check the "Engine Oil Life Reset" section of your owner's manual. Method 2: The Accelerator Pedal Reset This is the classic Mopar reset method, and it's listed in Stellantis owner's manuals as a secondary method. It works on many Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles, including those without a reset option in the display menu. For vehicles with push-button start Turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Without pressing the brake pedal, push the ENGINE START/STOP button once to put the ignition in ON/RUN. Press the accelerator three times. Slowly press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor three times within ten seconds. Turn the ignition off. Without pressing the brake pedal, push the ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the ignition to OFF. Check your work. Start the vehicle. If the oil change message doesn't appear, the reset worked. For vehicles with a traditional key On older vehicles with a turn key, the process is generally the same: turn the key to the ON/RUN position without starting the engine, slowly press the accelerator to the floor three times within ten seconds, then turn the key back to the OFF or LOCK position. Confirm the exact steps in your owner's manual, since older models can differ slightly. Tips for the pedal method Go slowly and fully. Press the pedal all the way to the floor each time, at a steady pace. Pressing too fast or not far enough is the most common reason it doesn't work. Don't touch the brake. On push-button vehicles, pressing the brake while pushing the start button can start the engine instead of just turning on the ignition. Watch the clock. All three presses need to happen within about ten seconds. Quick Reference: Reset Methods Method Steps Best for Instrument cluster menu Ignition on, engine off; Vehicle Info, then Oil Life, then Reset; confirm Yes Newer vehicles with steering-wheel display controls Accelerator pedal (push-button start) Ignition on without the brake; press the pedal to the floor slowly three times within 10 seconds; ignition off Most push-button Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles Accelerator pedal (key start) Key to ON without starting; press the pedal to the floor slowly three times within 10 seconds; key to OFF Older key-start models; confirm in your manual Model-by-Model Notes While the two methods above cover most vehicles, here's what to keep in mind for each brand. Steps can vary by model year, trim and instrument cluster, so your owner's manual is always the final word. Jeep Most Jeep models, including the Wrangler, Gladiator, Compass, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee, support one or both reset methods. Newer models with larger digital clusters often have an "Engine Oil Life Reset" option in the instrument cluster display menu. For example, the 2023 Grand Cherokee owner's manual lists Engine Oil Life Reset under its Instrument Cluster Display section. We also have a dedicated guide for resetting the oil change light on a 2026 Jeep Compass. Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer The Wagoneer's owner's manual also covers Engine Oil Life Reset in its instrument cluster display section. Its manual notes that an authorized dealer resets the indicator after an oil change, and that the oil should be changed within about 500 miles of the message appearing. Ram Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 trucks typically use the instrument cluster menu method described above, with the accelerator pedal method as a backup. On Cummins diesel models, you may also see a separate "Perform Service" message for emissions-related maintenance. That's a different reminder with its own reset procedure, described in the owner's manual. Dodge Dodge Charger and Durango models generally follow the same instrument cluster or accelerator pedal methods. Performance models may have additional performance pages in their displays, but the oil life reset is usually found under vehicle information or settings. Chrysler Chrysler Pacifica owners can usually reset the indicator using the instrument cluster menu or the accelerator pedal method. Check the "Oil Change Indicator" or "Engine Oil Life Reset" section of the owner's manual for your model year. What If the Oil Change Light Won't Reset? If the message comes back when you start the vehicle, the reset didn't take. The Ram owner's manual simply says to repeat the procedure. If it still won't reset, try these fixes: Start over with the engine off. Make sure the engine is fully off before turning the ignition to ON/RUN. Don't start the engine. The reset needs to be done with the ignition on and the engine off. Slow down your pedal presses. Press the accelerator all the way to the floor each time, steadily, within ten seconds. Try the other method. If the pedal method doesn't work, try the instrument cluster menu, and vice versa. Check for other messages. If a different warning is showing, it may need attention first. Call your service department. If nothing works, the system may need to be reset with a diagnostic tool. Our technicians can take care of it quickly. When You Should Not Reset the Oil Change Light When the oil hasn't been changed. The indicator exists to protect your engine. Resetting it without changing the oil just means you'll lose track of when the next change is really due. When the red oil pressure light is on. That's a warning about low oil pressure, not a maintenance reminder. Stop driving and have the vehicle checked. When the oil level is low. Top off or change the oil first. If your oil change is overdue, our guide on how long you can drive with an overdue oil change explains what to do. Common Mistakes to Avoid Starting the engine. Both reset methods require the ignition to be on with the engine off. On push-button vehicles, pressing the brake while pushing the start button will start the engine. Rushing the pedal. Quick, partial taps often don't register. Press the pedal all the way to the floor, slowly and steadily. Resetting the wrong item. Some displays show other service reminders or trip meters. Make sure you're resetting oil life, not a trip odometer or another reminder. Forgetting to confirm. In the menu method, you usually need to select "Yes" to finish the reset. Resetting too early. Reset only after the oil and filter have been changed and the oil level is correct. Other Service Reminders You Might See The oil change message isn't the only maintenance reminder on newer vehicles. Depending on your model, you may also see: "Perform Service" on Ram Cummins diesels: a reminder for emissions-related maintenance, such as the closed crankcase ventilation filter, with its own procedure in the owner's manual. Tire pressure warnings: common when temperatures drop in the fall. Fill tires to the pressure on the driver's door placard. Low washer fluid: top off with a winter-rated fluid as the weather turns cold. If a warning or message isn't familiar, check your owner's manual or give our service team a call. Why Resetting Matters It might seem like a small step, but resetting the indicator correctly protects your engine and your wallet: It keeps your schedule accurate. The indicator can only tell you when the next change is due if it starts counting from the right point. It prevents false alarms. If the indicator isn't reset, it will keep telling you the oil is due, and you may start ignoring it, which is risky when it's actually due. It supports your maintenance records. Following the indicator, along with keeping receipts, helps show your vehicle has been properly maintained. Remember that the indicator isn't the only limit. Every owner's manual also lists a maximum interval in miles and months. For example, many Jeep gas models top out at 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Learn more in our guide, How Often Should You Change Your Oil? Doing Your Own Oil Change? A Few Tips Plenty of Jeep and Ram owners like doing their own maintenance. If that's you, a few tips help you do it right: Use the right oil. Stellantis owner's manuals call for specific oils, such as SAE 0W-20 full synthetic for the 5.7-liter HEMI and SAE 0W-40 full synthetic for the 6.4-liter HEMI. Check your manual or oil fill cap. Use a quality filter. A genuine Mopar filter is designed for your engine. Check the drain plug and filter seal. Make sure the old filter gasket came off with the filter, and tighten the drain plug to the correct torque. Fill to the correct level and recheck after running the engine briefly and letting it sit. Dispose of used oil properly. Many auto parts stores and local recycling centers around the Kansas City area accept used motor oil and filters. Keep records. Save receipts for oil and filters, and write down the date and mileage. Records help with warranty claims and resale value. Reset the indicator using one of the methods above. Why Let a Dealership Handle Your Oil Change? Doing it yourself works, but a dealership oil change has advantages, especially for newer vehicles: The correct oil and filter, every time, matched to your exact engine Indicator reset included, so you don't have to fiddle with menus A check of other systems, like fluids, tires, brakes and battery, while your vehicle is in the shop Recall checks, so any open recalls can be addressed during your visit Factory-trained technicians who work on Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles every day Kansas City Driving and Your Oil Life Kansas City's weather and roads affect how quickly your oil change indicator counts down. Hot summers, cold winters, short trips around town and towing season all count as tougher conditions, and the system adjusts for them. Don't be surprised if your indicator comes on sooner in the winter or after a summer of towing a boat to Lake of the Ozarks. That's the system doing its job. Frequently Asked Questions How do I reset the oil change light on my Jeep? On many Jeeps, turn the ignition on without starting the engine, then either use the steering wheel buttons to go to Vehicle Info, then Oil Life, and select Reset, or slowly press the accelerator to the floor three times within ten seconds and turn the ignition off. Start the Jeep to confirm the message is gone. How do I reset the oil life on a Ram truck? According to the Ram owner's manual, with the ignition on and the engine off, scroll to Vehicle Info, then Oil Life, press and hold the right arrow to select Reset, choose Yes and confirm. You can also use the accelerator pedal method as a backup. Why won't my oil change light reset? The most common reasons are starting the engine instead of just turning on the ignition, pressing the accelerator too quickly or not all the way to the floor, or not completing the presses within ten seconds. Repeat the procedure carefully, or try the other reset method. Can I reset the oil light without changing the oil? You can, but you shouldn't. The indicator is there to tell you when your oil needs to be changed. Resetting it without an oil change means you'll lose track of when the next change is truly due. Is the oil change light the same as the oil pressure light? No. The oil change message is a maintenance reminder. The red oil pressure warning light means low oil pressure. If it comes on, pull over safely and turn off the engine. Do I need to reset the oil light after a dealership oil change? No. At McCarthy CDJR, our technicians reset the oil change indicator as part of every oil change. How often should I change my oil? Follow your oil change indicator, and never exceed the maximum interval in your owner's manual, which for many Jeep gas models is 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Let McCarthy CDJR Handle Your Next Oil Change Skip the menus and the mess. The certified technicians at McCarthy Jeep Ram Chrysler Dodge in Lee's Summit will change your oil with the right Mopar-approved oil and filter, reset your oil change indicator and check your vehicle's other key systems while you wait. If your oil change light won't reset after a DIY change, stop by and we'll take care of it. We're located at 1051 SE Oldham Parkway in Lee's Summit, just off US-50, serving drivers from Blue Springs, Raymore, Independence, Belton, Grain Valley, Greenwood and across the Kansas City metro. Schedule your service online or call us at (816) 441-5389. Schedule an Oil Change

Some cars are fast. Some cars are famous. And a rare few become legends the moment they show up. The Dodge Viper was one of those. It had a giant V10 under a long, curvy hood, side pipes that could singe your calf and almost no electronic safety nets. For 25 years it was America's raw, unapologetic answer to the world's exotic supercars. The short answer The Dodge Viper was a V10-powered American sports car built in Detroit from 1992 to 2017. It started as a 400-horsepower roadster and finished as a 645-horsepower track weapon, winning at Le Mans, Daytona and the Nürburgring along the way. Just under 32,000 were built across five generations before production ended in August 2017. In this look back, we'll trace the Viper from a bold 1989 concept car to its final, record-setting ACR. We'll cover every generation, its racing victories, the Viper-powered pickup truck that shocked the truck world and why production finally ended. And for Lee's Summit and Kansas City drivers who still crave that kind of Dodge performance, we'll show you where the Viper's spirit lives on in today's Dodge lineup. Born From a Bold Idea The Viper story starts in the late 1980s, when Chrysler was looking for something to get people excited about the brand again. Chrysler president Bob Lutz suggested a modern take on the legendary Shelby Cobra: a simple, brutally powerful two-seat roadster with a huge engine and not much else. Designer Tom Gale and the Chrysler Design Center turned the idea into a clay model, and the concept car debuted at the 1989 North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The reaction was overwhelming. People wanted Chrysler to build it, and Chrysler listened. Chief engineer Roy Sjoberg assembled a small group of about 85 engineers, nicknamed "Team Viper," to turn the concept into a production car. Chairman Lee Iacocca gave the program official approval in May 1990. The V10 with a Lamborghini connection The heart of the Viper was its engine: an 8.0-liter V10. At the time, Chrysler owned Lamborghini, and the Italian supercar maker helped design the engine, including casting an aluminum prototype block. The engine was based on Chrysler's V8 architecture but reworked into a large, high-torque aluminum V10. It became one of the most recognizable engines in American performance history. The Viper Timeline at a Glance 1989: The Viper concept debuts at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. 1990: Chrysler approves production. 1991: Pre-production Vipers pace the Indianapolis 500. 1992: The first RT/10 roadsters reach customers. 1996: The GTS coupe arrives and paces the Indy 500. 1998–2000: The Viper GTS-R wins its class at Le Mans three years in a row. 2000: The Viper GTS-R wins the 24 Hours of Daytona overall. 2003: The redesigned Viper SRT-10 debuts with 500 horsepower. 2004: The Viper-powered Ram SRT-10 pickup goes on sale. 2008: The V10 grows to 8.4 liters and 600 horsepower. 2010: Fourth-generation production ends. 2013: The Viper returns as the SRT Viper with 640 horsepower. 2015: It becomes the Dodge Viper again, with 645 horsepower. 2017: Production ends, and the Conner Avenue plant closes on August 31. The Five Generations of the Viper Over 25 years, the Viper went through five generations. Each one got more powerful and more capable, but every one stayed true to the original idea: a big V10, rear-wheel drive and a focus on the driver. Generation Years Engine Horsepower Highlights 1st 1992–1995 8.0L V10 400 hp RT/10 roadster 2nd 1996–2002 8.0L V10 415–450 hp GTS coupe, first ACR 3rd 2003–2006 8.3L V10 500 hp SRT-10 roadster and coupe 4th 2008–2010 8.4L V10 600 hp SRT-10 ACR 5th 2013–2017 8.4L V10 640–645 hp SRT Viper, Dodge Viper GTC and ACR First generation (1992–1995): The RT/10 Pre-production Vipers paced the 1991 Indianapolis 500 with Carroll Shelby himself at the wheel of one, and the first retail cars reached customers in January 1992. The RT/10 roadster was famously bare-bones. It had no exterior door handles, no roll-up windows (just zip-in side curtains), no anti-lock brakes and, at first, air conditioning only as a dealer-installed option. What it did have was 400 horsepower, enormous torque and side-exit exhaust. It was a car you had to respect, and drivers loved it for exactly that reason. Second generation (1996–2002): The GTS coupe In 1996, the Viper got a coupe. The GTS, with its iconic "double-bubble" roof and blue paint with white racing stripes, became one of the most recognizable American cars of the decade. It paced the Indianapolis 500 in 1996, and its V10 made 450 horsepower. The coupe added real windows, and this generation brought more comfort and safety features, including airbags and, by 2001, anti-lock brakes, while keeping the Viper's wild personality. In 1999, Dodge introduced the first ACR (American Club Racer) package for drivers who wanted to take their Viper to the track. Production moved to Detroit's Conner Avenue Assembly Plant in 1995, where Vipers would be hand-assembled for the rest of the car's life. Third generation (2003–2006): The SRT-10 The redesigned Viper SRT-10 brought sharper, more modern styling and a bigger 8.3-liter V10 rated at 500 horsepower. The roadster came first, followed by a new SRT-10 coupe. The name reflected Chrysler's Street and Racing Technology (SRT) performance group, which developed Dodge's most extreme vehicles. Fourth generation (2008–2010): 600 horsepower For 2008, the V10 grew to 8.4 liters and jumped to 600 horsepower. The SRT-10 ACR returned as a serious track car with aggressive aerodynamics, adjustable suspension and lighter weight. In 2011, a fourth-generation ACR set a Nürburgring lap time of 7:12.13, one of the fastest production-car laps of its time. Production of this generation ended in July 2010, and for a couple of years it looked like the Viper might be gone for good. Fifth generation (2013–2017): The comeback The Viper returned for 2013 as the SRT Viper, with a stiffer chassis, a more refined interior and 640 horsepower. For the first time, the Viper got modern electronic stability control and traction control. In 2015, it was renamed the Dodge Viper and gained 5 more horsepower, for 645 horsepower and 600 lb-ft of torque. Dodge said the V10 delivered the most torque of any naturally aspirated sports car engine in the world. The final Viper ACR, with its optional Extreme Aero Package producing roughly one ton of downforce at top speed, became a record-setting track monster. Dodge says it held 13 road-course lap records certified by the Sports Car Club of America. The Viper on the Racetrack The Viper wasn't just fast on paper. It proved itself at the biggest endurance races in the world. Le Mans: The Viper GTS-R, run by the French team Oreca, won its class at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1998, 1999 and 2000. Daytona: In 2000, a Viper GTS-R won the Rolex 24 at Daytona overall, beating faster prototype race cars across the finish line. Championships: Oreca won the 1999 FIA GT Championship and the 1999 American Le Mans Series GTS title with the Viper. Spa and the Nürburgring: Vipers won the Spa 24 Hours in 2001 and 2002 and took multiple wins at the Nürburgring 24 Hours. A late encore: In 2014, the factory-backed Viper team won the drivers' and teams' championships in the United SportsCar Championship's GT Le Mans class. For a car many people saw as a brute-force muscle machine, the Viper's racing record showed it could win against the most sophisticated sports cars in the world. What It Was Like to Drive a Viper Ask anyone who has driven a Viper, and you'll usually hear the same words: intense, physical and unforgettable. The V10 made huge torque from very low in the rev range, so the car surged forward in almost any gear. Early Vipers had no traction control, which meant the driver's right foot was the only thing managing all that power. On a cold or damp day, that demanded real respect. Every Viper used a manual transmission. There was never an automatic option, which made the Viper feel like a throwback even when it was new. The long hood stretched out in front of you, the seating position was low and the exhaust note was a deep, uneven rumble unlike any V8. Later generations grew far more civilized, with better brakes, modern stability control and comfortable interiors, but they never lost that raw edge. That's a big part of why owners and fans remember the Viper so fondly. It made every drive, even a trip to the grocery store, feel like an event. The Viper-Powered Pickup: The Ram SRT-10 One of the wildest chapters in the Viper story didn't involve a sports car at all. From 2004 to 2006, Dodge sold the Ram SRT-10, a full-size pickup with the Viper's 8.3-liter V10 under the hood. It made 500 horsepower and 525 lb-ft of torque, and early models came with a six-speed manual transmission. It was an outrageous idea, and truck fans still talk about it today. That spirit of putting huge power in a pickup lives on in Ram's performance trucks. If you're curious about how today's Ram lineup compares, see our guide to half-ton vs. three-quarter-ton vs. one-ton trucks. Why the Viper Ended In October 2015, Fiat Chrysler announced the Viper would end production in 2017. The company pointed to slow sales; the Viper was always a niche, expensive car. Industry reports also pointed to a federal safety standard (FMVSS 226) that required side-curtain airbag protection, which would have been very difficult to add to the Viper's design without a major and costly redesign. Dodge gave the Viper a proper send-off with a run of serialized special editions for its final year, many paying tribute to famous Vipers of the past. The last Vipers were built in Detroit, and the Conner Avenue Assembly Plant closed on August 31, 2017. In total, just under 32,000 Vipers were built over the car's life. Why the Viper Still Matters Nearly a decade after the last one was built, the Viper still has a devoted following, and it's easy to see why. It was pure. Big engine, rear-wheel drive, a manual transmission and a long hood. In an age of turbocharged engines and digital everything, that simplicity feels special. It was American. Designed and built in Detroit, the Viper proved an American carmaker could build a world-class supercar. It was a winner. Class wins at Le Mans, an overall win at Daytona and production-car lap records gave it serious credibility. It was rare. With fewer than 32,000 built over 25 years, every Viper is a special sight at a car show or cruise night. You can see that passion right here in the Kansas City area. At local car shows, cruise nights and Cars and Coffee meetups, a Viper still draws a crowd faster than almost anything else in the lot. Longtime fans love telling the story of the first time they heard one start up, and younger enthusiasts who grew up seeing Vipers in video games and posters finally get to see one in person. For many Mopar fans in Lee's Summit and beyond, the Viper is the car that made them fall in love with Dodge in the first place. Low-production, special-edition Vipers, especially early RT/10s, GTS coupes and late ACRs, have become collector favorites. If you own one, keeping it in top shape with regular service, fresh fluids and careful storage helps protect both the driving experience and its value. Thinking about buying a used Viper? If owning a Viper is on your bucket list, a few tips can help you shop smart: Get the service history. Regular fluid changes and documented maintenance matter on a high-performance V10. Check tires and brakes. Performance tires age out even with low miles, and track use can wear brakes and suspension quickly. Look for track wear and modifications. Aftermarket parts aren't automatically bad, but they can affect reliability and value. Have it inspected. A pre-purchase inspection by a technician who knows Dodge performance cars is money well spent. Check for open recalls by VIN on the NHTSA website. Fun Viper Facts The original RT/10 didn't have exterior door handles. You opened the doors from the inside. Early Vipers used zip-in side curtains instead of roll-up windows, and factory air conditioning didn't arrive until 1994. The famous blue-and-white GTS coupe paced the Indianapolis 500 in 1996. The 2017 Viper could be built in so many combinations that Dodge said there were more than 50 million possible configurations for the GTC and ACR. The Viper's V10 shared DNA with a Lamborghini engineering effort, a connection few American sports cars can claim. Where the Viper's Spirit Lives Today There's no new Viper on sale today, but the attitude that made it great is very much alive in the Dodge lineup. If you love big power and bold design, these are the vehicles to know: Dodge Charger The new Charger carries Dodge's muscle-car legacy into a new era. For 2026, the gas-powered Charger is available with the twin-turbo Hurricane Sixpack inline-six, making 420 horsepower in the R/T and 550 horsepower in the Scat Pack. There's also the all-electric Charger Daytona for drivers who want instant electric torque. Like the Viper, the Charger is built around the idea that driving should be exciting. It also adds things the Viper never offered, like a usable back seat, a big hatchback cargo area and available all-wheel drive, so you can enjoy Dodge performance all year round, even through a Kansas City winter. Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat If you need room for the family but still want to feel something every time you press the gas, the Durango SRT Hellcat is a three-row SUV with a supercharged HEMI V8. For 2026, Dodge rated the Durango SRT Hellcat Jailbreak at 710 horsepower. It's about as close as you can get to Viper-level thrills with seating for up to seven. The Jeep Wrangler 392 It's not a Dodge, but if you want a big, naturally aspirated engine with a wild personality, the HEMI V8-powered Wrangler 392 is worth a look. Read our guide, What Is the Jeep Wrangler 392?, to learn more. Want more Mopar history? Read our look back at Dodge's great muscle cars. Frequently Asked Questions What years was the Dodge Viper made? The Viper was built from 1992 to 2017, with a short break after the fourth generation ended in 2010. It returned for the 2013 model year and ended production in August 2017. How much horsepower did the Dodge Viper have? The first Viper RT/10 made 400 horsepower from an 8.0-liter V10. The final Dodge Viper made 645 horsepower and 600 lb-ft of torque from an 8.4-liter V10. Did Lamborghini design the Viper engine? Lamborghini, which Chrysler owned at the time, helped design the Viper's V10 and cast an aluminum prototype engine block. The engine was based on Chrysler V8 architecture. Why did Dodge stop making the Viper? Fiat Chrysler cited slow sales when it announced the end of the Viper. Industry reports also pointed to a federal side-curtain airbag safety standard that would have been difficult to meet without a costly redesign. How many Dodge Vipers were made? Just under 32,000 Vipers were built across five generations from 1992 to 2017. Did the Viper ever win Le Mans? The Viper GTS-R won its class at the 24 Hours of Le Mans three years in a row, in 1998, 1999 and 2000. It also won the 24 Hours of Daytona overall in 2000. What does ACR stand for on the Viper? ACR stands for American Club Racer. It was Dodge's track-focused version of the Viper, with upgraded suspension, aerodynamics and brakes for drivers who wanted to race or take the car to track days. Where was the Dodge Viper built? Every Viper was built in Detroit. Early cars came from the New Mack Avenue plant, and from 1995 until the end of production in 2017, Vipers were assembled at the Conner Avenue Assembly Plant. Will Dodge bring back the Viper? Dodge hasn't announced a new Viper. For now, the Charger and Durango SRT Hellcat carry on Dodge's high-performance spirit. Feel Dodge Performance at McCarthy CDJR The Viper proved that Dodge knows how to build something unforgettable, and that tradition continues today. Whether you're shopping for a new Charger, a Durango SRT Hellcat or a certified pre-owned Dodge performance car, the team at McCarthy Jeep Ram Chrysler Dodge in Lee's Summit would love to help you find your next thrill. We'll walk you through the options, set up a test drive and make the buying process easy. We're located at 1051 SE Oldham Parkway in Lee's Summit, just off US-50, serving drivers from Blue Springs, Raymore, Independence, Belton, Grain Valley, Greenwood, Overland Park and across the Kansas City metro. Browse our Dodge inventory or call us at (816) 441-5389 to schedule a test drive. Shop Dodge Inventory

There's never a good time for a dead battery, but a 10-degree January morning in a Lee's Summit driveway, with the kids already late for school, might be the worst. You turn the key or press the start button and get a slow, tired groan, a rapid clicking or nothing at all. The frustrating part is that most batteries give warning signs for weeks before they finally quit. The short answer The biggest warning signs are a slow or labored start, clicking when you try to start, dim or flickering lights, electrical glitches, a battery warning light, a swollen or corroded battery, and age. Most car batteries last about 3 to 5 years, and cold weather can cut a battery's strength by about 35% at 32°F and about 60% at 0°F. If your battery is 3 or more years old, get it tested before the first hard freeze. In this guide, we'll walk through the seven signs that your battery is on its way out, why Kansas City's hot summers and cold winters are so tough on batteries, how to check yours at home and what to know about the batteries in today's Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. We'll also help you decide whether a weak battery is just a quick fix or a sign it's time to think about your next vehicle. Whether you drive around Lee's Summit, commute from Blue Springs or Raymore, or head into Kansas City every day, a few minutes now can save you a cold morning stranded later. Why Winter Is Hard on Car Batteries A car battery makes electricity through a chemical reaction, and that reaction slows down as temperatures drop. At the same time, a cold engine is harder to turn over because its oil is thicker. So in winter, your battery has less power available at the exact moment your engine needs more. According to AAA, a battery loses about 35% of its strength at 32°F and about 60% at 0°F, and starting an engine in cold weather can take up to twice the normal current. That's why a battery that seemed fine in October can suddenly fail on the first frigid morning of the year. Here in the Kansas City area, January's average low is about 24°F, and lows occasionally dip into the single digits. That's cold enough to expose any battery that's been quietly weakening. Summer heat does the real damage Here's what surprises a lot of drivers: heat is actually harder on batteries than cold. Consumer Reports explains that high temperatures speed up the chemical breakdown inside a battery, and the heat under the hood makes it worse. Our hot, humid Missouri summers do the damage, and the first cold snap reveals it. That's why the timing matters. If your battery made it through a long, hot summer, fall is the perfect time to find out how much life it has left, before winter does it for you. 7 Signs Your Car Battery Is Dying If you notice one or more of these warning signs, have your battery tested soon. Most are easy to spot once you know what to look for. 1. Your engine cranks slowly This is the most common early warning. Instead of a quick, crisp start, the engine turns over slowly and sounds sluggish, almost like it's struggling to wake up. It's usually most noticeable on cold mornings or after the vehicle has been parked for a day or two. A slow crank means the battery is having trouble delivering the burst of power the starter needs. It may still start today, but it's telling you it won't for much longer. 2. You hear clicking when you try to start A rapid clicking sound when you turn the key or press the start button usually means the battery has enough power to engage the starter's switch, but not enough to actually spin the engine. A single click can point to a starter problem instead. Either way, it's time for a test. If you've needed a jump start more than once recently, that's a strong sign the battery or charging system needs attention. 3. Your headlights and interior lights are dim AAA lists dim or yellowish headlights, and dome lights that are dim or flicker, as warning signs of a weak battery. You might notice headlights that brighten when you rev the engine, or interior lights that dim when you start the vehicle. Modern LED lights can hide this a bit, so pay attention to other clues, too. 4. Electronics act strangely Today's vehicles are full of electronics, and they need steady voltage to work properly. A weak battery can cause the radio or touchscreen to reset, power windows to move slowly, a weaker-sounding horn, phone chargers that stop working or random warning messages on the dash. AAA notes that the growing number of electronics in vehicles is one reason batteries may last closer to three years than five. On many newer Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler models, you may also notice that the engine Stop/Start feature stops shutting the engine off at red lights. The system has many conditions that can keep it from activating, and a low battery charge is one of them. If it stops working and nothing else has changed, mention it when you have the battery tested. 5. The battery warning light comes on The red battery-shaped warning light on your dash means the battery isn't being charged properly. That can be the battery itself, but it often points to the alternator, a belt or wiring in the charging system. Either way, the vehicle may be running on battery power alone, and it could stall when the battery runs down. Turn off nonessential electronics and get it checked right away. Our guide to Jeep dashboard warning lights explains this and other red lights in detail. 6. The battery looks swollen, cracked, leaking or corroded Pop the hood and take a look. Warning signs include: A swollen or bulging case: often caused by heat or overcharging, and a clear sign the battery needs to be replaced. Cracks or leaks: battery acid is dangerous. Don't touch it with bare hands. White, blue or green crust on the terminals: corrosion can block the flow of electricity and make a healthy battery act like a weak one. Light corrosion can often be cleaned off, but if the battery itself is damaged, replace it. 7. It smells like rotten eggs, or the battery is simply old A sulfur or rotten-egg smell near the battery can mean it's leaking or overheating. Treat it seriously and have it inspected soon. And sometimes the clearest warning sign is the calendar. AAA puts a typical battery's life at about three to five years, and lists being more than three years old as a warning sign by itself. Consumer Reports notes that batteries tend to last longer in colder northern states and wear out faster in hot southern ones. Kansas City's mix of hot summers and cold winters gives batteries a workout in both directions. If yours is three years old or more, get it tested this fall, even if it seems fine. How to Tell How Old Your Battery Is Most batteries have a date sticker or stamp on the top or side. Consumer Reports explains that the code usually shows the month and year it was made. It might look like "10-8" (numbers) or "K-8" (a letter for the month, with A for January and the letter I skipped). Some show a full date instead. If you have service records, your receipt will also show when the battery was installed. And if you bought a used vehicle and don't know the battery's history, it's worth having it tested sooner rather than later. How to Check Your Battery at Home A quick visual check and a simple voltage reading can tell you a lot. Here's how: Turn the engine off and let the vehicle sit for at least a few hours, ideally overnight, so you get a true resting reading. Look the battery over for swelling, cracks, leaks and corrosion on the terminals. Check the connections. The cables should be tight and shouldn't wiggle on the posts. Use a multimeter set to DC volts. Touch the red lead to the positive (+) terminal and the black lead to the negative (−) terminal. Read the voltage. As a general guideline, a fully charged 12-volt battery reads about 12.6 volts or a bit higher at rest. Around 12.4 volts is roughly three-quarters charged, and 12.2 volts or lower suggests the battery is low and needs charging and a proper test. Some vehicles can also show battery voltage in the instrument cluster's vehicle information menu. Check your owner's manual to see if yours does. Why a professional test is better A voltage reading only tells you how charged the battery is, not how healthy it is. A battery can show a full charge and still fail under load on a cold morning. A professional battery test measures how well the battery delivers power under load, which is what actually starts your engine. AAA recommends having a technician check the battery, starter and alternator together, since a weak alternator or starter can look a lot like a bad battery. What's Different About Batteries in Newer CDJR Vehicles Batteries aren't one-size-fits-all anymore, and that's especially true on today's Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler models. Stop/Start vehicles need the right battery type Vehicles with automatic engine Stop/Start restart the engine many times on every drive, which puts extra demand on the battery. They typically use an advanced battery, such as an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery. Battery maker VARTA notes that a Stop/Start battery should be replaced with the same type, and that a conventional battery isn't an acceptable substitute because it would wear out quickly. Installing the wrong battery can also cause the Stop/Start system or other electronics to act up. Some vehicles have more than one battery Depending on the model and equipment, your vehicle may have an auxiliary battery in addition to the main one. Plug-in hybrids like the Jeep Wrangler 4xe and Grand Cherokee 4xe have a large high-voltage battery for electric driving, but they also have a separate 12-volt battery that powers the low-voltage systems, according to Jeep's emergency response guide. That 12-volt battery can still weaken with age, just like in a gas vehicle. Mild-hybrid systems Some Ram 1500 and Jeep models have used a 48-volt mild-hybrid system, often called eTorque, to help with smooth Stop/Start operation and add a little torque. These vehicles still have a standard 12-volt battery as well. Replacing or servicing the high-voltage or 48-volt components is a job for trained technicians. The takeaway: when your battery needs replacing, make sure it's the correct type and size for your exact vehicle. A certified Mopar technician will match the battery to your vehicle's specifications. How to Make Your Battery Last Longer You can't stop a battery from aging, but you can slow it down and avoid surprises: Get it tested every fall once it's three years old, and every year after that. Keep the terminals clean and tight. Corrosion and loose cables waste power. Avoid lots of very short trips. Short drives don't give the alternator time to fully recharge the battery, especially in winter when heaters, defrosters and heated seats are running. Drive regularly. If a vehicle sits for weeks, a battery maintainer can keep it charged. Turn off lights and accessories when the engine is off. Unplug dash cams and other devices that draw power while parked. Park in a garage when you can. It helps in both the summer heat and the winter cold. Keep a jump starter in the vehicle. A compact jump pack is an inexpensive way to avoid being stranded. What to Do If Your Battery Dies If it happens, stay calm and stay safe: Check the basics. Make sure the vehicle is in Park and that interior lights or accessories weren't left on. Jump-start it carefully using the procedure and connection points in your owner's manual. Some vehicles specify particular jump-start points under the hood, which may not be the battery itself. Drive it straight to a service department or let it run long enough to recharge, but don't assume the problem is solved. A battery that died once is likely to do it again. Get the whole charging system tested, including the alternator and starter. If you smell rotten eggs, see the battery swelling or notice leaking, don't try to jump-start it. Call for help instead. Your Quick Winter-Ready Checklist While you're thinking about the battery, take care of the other things that make Kansas City winters easier. A few minutes now can prevent a breakdown on a snowy morning on I-470 or Highway 291. Check Why it matters in winter Battery test Cold weather exposes weak batteries first. Tire pressure and tread Pressure drops as temperatures fall, and worn tread loses grip on ice and slush. Wiper blades and washer fluid Road salt and slush make clear visibility essential. Use a winter-rated washer fluid. Coolant The right coolant mix protects against freezing and keeps the heater working. Oil change Fresh oil flows better on cold starts. See our guide on overdue oil changes. 4WD system check Make sure four-wheel drive engages properly before you need it in the snow. Emergency kit Pack a blanket, gloves, flashlight, ice scraper, phone charger and a jump starter. Battery Trouble on an Older Vehicle? It Might Be Time to Upgrade A new battery is often a quick, simple fix. But sometimes a dead battery is the first of several repairs adding up on an aging vehicle. If your car or truck also needs tires, brakes or bigger work this winter, or it just isn't as dependable as it used to be, it's worth comparing the cost of repairs to the benefits of something newer. Newer Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler models offer features that make Kansas City winters easier, like remote start on many models to warm up the cabin before you head out, heated seats and steering wheels, four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive for snowy roads, and advanced battery management to help keep electrical systems charged. A new vehicle also comes with a factory warranty, and a certified pre-owned vehicle has passed a detailed inspection. If you're on the fence, our team can appraise your current vehicle so you know what it's worth as a trade-in before you decide anything. Ask about a trade-in appraisal when you come in for a battery test, and you'll have both answers in one visit. Frequently Asked Questions How long does a car battery last in Missouri? Most car batteries last about three to five years. Hot Missouri summers speed up wear, so many drivers in the Kansas City area find their batteries need replacing toward the shorter end of that range. Have yours tested once it's three years old. Why does my car battery die in cold weather? Cold slows the chemical reaction that produces power, so a battery loses about 35% of its strength at 32°F and about 60% at 0°F, according to AAA. At the same time, a cold engine needs more power to start. A battery that's already weak may not be able to keep up. Can a battery die without warning? It can, especially if heat has damaged it internally. But most batteries show signs first, like a slow crank, dim lights or electrical glitches. A load test can catch a weak battery before it leaves you stranded. Is it the battery or the alternator? If the vehicle starts with a jump but dies again soon after, or the battery warning light comes on while driving, the alternator or charging system may be the problem. If it starts slowly after sitting but runs fine once started, the battery is the more likely culprit. A technician can test both. Do I need a special battery for a vehicle with Stop/Start? Yes. Vehicles with automatic Stop/Start typically use an advanced battery, such as an AGM battery, and should be fitted with the same type when it's replaced. A conventional battery may wear out quickly and can cause the Stop/Start system to act up. Should I replace my battery before winter even if it still works? If your battery is three or more years old, it's smart to have it load tested in the fall. If the test shows it's weak, replacing it before the first hard freeze is much easier than dealing with a no-start on a cold morning. If it tests healthy, you can keep using it and test it again next year. How long does a battery replacement take? For most vehicles, a battery test and replacement is a quick service visit. Some newer vehicles have batteries in harder-to-reach locations or need additional steps after installation, which can add a little time. Get Your Battery Tested at McCarthy CDJR in Lee's Summit Don't wait for the first sub-zero morning to find out your battery is done. Our certified technicians at McCarthy Jeep Ram Chrysler Dodge can test your battery, starter and alternator, check for corrosion and loose connections, and replace your battery with the correct Mopar battery for your vehicle, including AGM batteries for Stop/Start models. And if a battery test turns into a bigger conversation about your vehicle's future, our sales team is right here, too. Browse our new and certified pre-owned Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Chrysler inventory, or ask for a trade-in appraisal while you're in for service. We're located at 1051 SE Oldham Parkway in Lee's Summit, just off US-50, serving drivers from Blue Springs, Raymore, Independence, Belton, Grain Valley, Greenwood and across the Kansas City metro. Schedule your service online, browse our inventory or call us at (816) 441-5389. Schedule a Battery Test